60 Million Hindu pilgrims... a stampede... and my cane.
My adventure last weekend took me to the city of Allahabad - about a three (or four) hour drive from Varanasi (I'm sure this is a VERY helpful reference point for most)...
I was going up there to cover the 'Ardh Kumbh Mela' - which is a pretty fantastic sight to see...
Up to 60million Hindu pilgrims make the trek to Allahabad to dip in the holy Ganges River -- the faithful believe it will cleanse their souls. Just to put 60 million into perspective -- about 2.5million attend that Hajj in Mecca. Well, yes, up to 60 million people (over six weeks) visit once every six or twelve years to take a dip in the water. It is believed that in ancient times gods and demons were fighting over a pitcher (or "kumbh") of immortality. During the fight, a few drops spilled in a few different rivers -- and this is where those rivers come together.
I didn't really appreciate just how many people were there until we hired a boat and went along the shore (for mile after mile) and looked back -- seeing masses of the devoted getting ready/taking their dip.
What is incredible about Hinduism is that there appears to be a great pride and energy to carrying out this pilgrimage en masse. And, even to an outsider, there is an excitement just to getting so many people in one place. But, what is so interesting, is that the worship/prayer is so individualistic. Some of the faithful shout and splash in the water -- others quietly offer prayer.
Also at the Kumbh are an incredible array of "Sadhus" (saw-doo) - or "holy men" - who embrace Hinduism and "spread not only religion but culture too." This Sadhu has covered himself in 11,000 beads over the last 11 years and will continue to do so for another decade. He believes that this gives him super-powers and that he embodies a Hindu God. (He told us he does take the beads off to take a bath). Nearby, we met another Sadhu who was lighting a large fire under a swinging chair made of nails. He sits on top of the chair for hours as penance - believing it will bring him closer to God.
So... during my little coverage of the "Ardh Kumbh Mela" - I was standing with my photographer shooting a religious parade and remarking to my producer that the whole thing looked a little shoddy (from a production standpoint). Well... perhaps I shouldn't have insulted a religious parade - because one of the religious floats gave-way.. and came barreling down the hill toward me (and a number of others) -- creating a stampede! Yes... a stampede. My cameraman, Sanjiv, yelled "Stampede!!" and I went running -- there was a fence behind me which I was concerned I may get crushed up against - so I went over it (with tripod and bag full of heavy camera batteries) and landed on a bunch of rocks below.
To make a long (but interesting) story short... I hurt my knee. I had to walk for many, many kilometers all day the following day (between 5am and 7pm) (no cars/bikes/rickshaws were allowed inside) and at one point I had to employ a boy to carry me up a hill.
Anyway... an MRI and a few orthopedic surgeon visits later... I've gotten the very GOOD news that I won't need surgery. I WILL, however, have to walk with a cane for about three weeks (I have a bone bruise).
In the next posting... I'll include a picture of the CANE... it's very SNAZZY... a brass-headed cane... it really gives me a "distinguished" look... also, perhaps, an "eccentric" one...
I feel a bit like Lord Mountbatten or something...
:) -sd